Tuesday, March 07, 2006

Chiang Rai, the Golden Triangle, and a bit of Laos

We took a VIP bus from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai, which was the greatest bus I have ever been on - complete with fully reclining seats and air conditioning. In Chiang Rai we hit the local market, which was about all there really was to see there - besides temples, but at this point in our trip unless they are absolutely amazing temples we won't be visiting them. After Chiang Rai we headed to Chiang Saen and booked a room at the worst place we've stayed yet. This guesthouse had mini ponds around it that were filled with mosquitoes and frogs both of which kept us up all night along with the roosters and wild Thais next door. In Chiang Saen we went to the Golden Triangle and one of the temples on top of the mountains surrounding the area. We also ended up missing the last scheduled bus heading from the Golden Triangle back to Chiang Saen, and so we walked - luckily I had my headlamp. When we were about 3/4 back to Chiang Saen (about 12km walk) we heard this crazy noise from behind us and noticed a set of headlights that was moving very slowly, which is strange for Thailand drivers. Soon these headlights caught up to us and stopped right next to me, and the vehicle that stood before me was the craziest ride I've ever seen. It looked like a steam powered car from the 19th century, with the engine and all the pedals being completely visible to the naked eye. In any case, the aged old man at the helm signaled for us to get on, and away we went at about 15 mph towards Chiang Saen. In Chiang Saen we took a local taxi to Chiang Khong, which was also an equally interesting experience. This taxi (a small Toyota pickup with a cab outfitted with benches) we took filled up with a total of 29 people (22 adults and 7 children) - it was nuts because these trucks are not made to handle so much weight. It seems that folks in S.E. Asia have not learned about costs vs. benefits, because taking so many people on this truck was not only damaging to the vehicle, the truck also needed to fill up twice for a mere 2 1/2 hour drive. After we had dropped off most of the people right at their doorsteps our driver pulled right up to a field and stopped. He then got out and walked into the field where he proceeded to move the cows in the field around - I guess its ok to tend to your livestock while on the job in Thailand. Once in Chiang Khong we went to Customs and got a ferry over to Huay Xai in Laos. In Huay Xai we saw a Laotian temple and we took a speed boat down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. The speed boats they have here are wild - they are about the size of a large canoe and can barely fit two people across they are outfitted with Toyota car engines, which connect to 10 Ft prop holding a propeller. These things are loud, uncomfortable and fast - they move at speeds over 50mph. They equipped us with safety gear, which included a torn life jacket and a broken helmet, and then they filled our boat which can hold about 4 people comfortably with 11 people ( 1 driver, 8 adults and 2 children). With all the weight of these extra people our boat was an inch from taking on water, but we were still able to roar at high speeds for a total of 6 1/2 hours. This was one of those times where it doesn't pay to be tall, because for the entire ride I had my knees in my mouth - I was one sore puppy. Luang Prabang is a beautiful city surrounded by amazing mountains and the food here is better than Thailand and cheaper. The locals in Laos are definitely more laid back than those of Thailand and also much friendlier. I'll post some more pictures of Laos soon - the topography of this country is wild and its also easily one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen.


The best beef in Thailand at a market in Chiang Rai


On the bus from Chiang Rai to Chiang Saen a lady put this box in front of me. In the middle of the journey I started hearing some strange noises out of the box, and then all of a sudden this kitty came out of it and ran through the bus and then jumped off. The whole box was filled with cats, but the lady was able to keep the rest of the cats from escaping




Tuk Tuk in Chiang Saen



Standing at a temple overlooking the Golden Triangle where Myanmar, Laos and Thailand meet.


The area of the Golden Triangle is touristy and this Buddha shows it. You throw change into the bins on the side and the money travels through the tubes and goes straight into the Buddha belly.



Here's that wild ride and its equally wild driver


Ferry across to Laos



Bryce in an argument with a statue in Laos. The temples in Laos do not even compare to those found in Thailand - the carvings, paintings and overall temple design are not as large, complex or as beautiful.



Strangely the outside of a Laotian Buddhist temple was covered in these gory depictions which I can only assume represents hell, but I didn't think that Buddhists believe in a heaven or a hell so I have really have no idea.


On top of a Laotian temple


Housing in Huay Xia, Laos - many of the buildings in Luang Prabang have a French colonial look to them, because at one time Laos was a French protectorate. Almost every meal you have in Laos is served with a tasty baguette.


One of those infamous speed boats


Me part way through the journey - cool helmet eh?


Sunset in Luang Prabang - the sun is red because of all the pollution in the air. In Laos they are currently in the burning season - so they are burning up tons of foliage in prescribed burns - from what I saw they are very good a prescribed burning. The other reason for all the pollution is that in some of the towns instead of burying their trash they burn it.



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