Sunday, December 23, 2007

Bariloche

Bariloche resides in the Lake District of Patagonia. Its a very beautiful town with a very European feel. I rented a bike for a day and cruised around the lakes.
I took a local bus out to main lakes and was struck with some form of food poisoning on the way out there - causing my body to get extremely tired and be overtaken by the shakes and chills. I was determined continue with the bike rental though, and ended up riding for half and hour until i reached the beach and then promptly fell asleep. When I woke up I ralphed all over the place, got back on my bike and rode to the main scenic viewing point, snapped a couple of shots and raced back to my hostel and bed.

Here I am looking decent, all things considered.




Bariloche Cathederal

Public swimming pool that was sadly closed for the holidays.

Torres del Paine

I headed to Puerto Natales, Chile, and from there took a bus to Torres Del Paine N.P. . I spent 8 days and 7 nights hiking the circuit around the entire park. Just before I set foot upon the trail I ran into an Israeli guy, Amos, and we decided to undertake the adventure together. Amos, besides being a laid back good companion turned out to be loads of help on the journey owing to the fact that his father is 100% Argentinian, and therefore he spoke fluent Spanish (he also spoke Arabic, English, and of course Hebrew fluently - skills that caused him to be assigned to the Intelligence Department in the Israeli military (namely his talents in Arabic).

Sadly, I did not pack lightly, but rather loaded my bag full of heavy canned foods and the likes. At the start of the journey my bag weighed about 85lbs, and forced me to constantly eat in order to save my back and feet. Amos was amazed at how much I could carry, but far more impressed with the amount of food I consumed in the day during my breakfast, brunch, lunch, after lunch snack, pre-dinner, dinner, and nighttime treat. We hiked about 6-7 hours a day up and down through the mountains of the park, and experience the worst winds and rain of our life. Fortunately, we were blessed with good weather at the main attractions.

Map of Torres Del Paine N.P.
Me and my big bag in the beginning en route to Campamento Seron
We experienced nothing but constant rain showers the entire day and night before this lovely photo was taken.
Amos and I happy that the good weather finally arrived.
Me going out on a limb at Laguna Cebolla
Amos and I in front of some famous (forgot the names) peaks
The one thing that kept us going during our hikes was the knowledge that we could buy Gato Negro (cheap delicious box wine) at the camps
An endless glacier, Grey Glacier - this photo was taken after climbing over the Paso John Gardner, the most difficult part of the trek.
Amos shaking his trekking poles after realizing were halfway through the trek.
We had to rappel down this cliff section, bags and all. This is a Chilean couple in the photo, and we ended up having to climb back up the cliff for their gear because they were scared of heights.
Me in front of the Grey Glacier.
Great shot of the Cuernos del Paine
Panoramic view of Valley del Frances
Cuernos del Paine and Nieto
The Torres del Paine were a bit clouded over when we visited, but still visible enough to get the gist.

After 7 nights of camping and eating cold food (my extremely expensive stove sprung a leak in the fuel line the first day), Johnny my hostel owner and ex-gaucho filled my gut with some tasty steak and vino. A look at the Johnny´s rustic hostel.

El Chalten

The town of El Chalten was recently founded in 1985 in order to settle the area and pre-empt Chilean territorial claims. It is in a constant state of construction, as the popularity of the Fitz Roy area for trekking grows. A shot of Cerro Fitz Roy (big one on the right) and Cerro Torre (funny looking sharp peak on the very left).

Matt (England), Me, and Tyson (USA) on our way to the base of Cerro Fitz RoyMatt enjoying a cigarette after the steep and long hike to the base of Fitz Roy
Me at a clouded Fitz Roy
Pieces of the glacier were falling off constantly while we were at Fitz Roy
A bunch of glacier bits falling into a lake
Waited around all day for the clouds to clear from Fitz Roy, but when the time came the sun was in the way.
Another shot of Fitz Roy
Cerro Torre
Me at Laguna Torre, the weather was so nasty here that as soon I had someone take my photo I headed home.

Ushuaia & El Calafate

El Calafate is a town solely existing as a tourist centre for visiting the glaciers of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. The town is set in a dust bowl without trees and a constant howling wind. Once you see the glaciers get the hell on out.

The most famous and easily accessible glacier, the Perito Moreno glacier.




In this pic you can see groups of people marching around on the glacier in crampons - a very touristy activity that I couldn't miss out on.
Me on the glacier
Me inside of a glacier cave
My favorite photo so far - Patagonia is filled full of free roaming dogs searching for a handout.


Ushuaia, the most southerly town in the world. Its not as cold as I expected, but like everyplace in Patagonia it gets extremely windy.

Here I am on a boat trip out in the Beagle Channel - the town of Ushuaia is behind me.

One of the most southerly lighthouses in the world.
Penguins and sea lions galore

More penguins
Me on a little island out in the channel.
Ushuaia
The best activity in Ushuaia is to take the chairlift up to Cerro Martial and hike up to the Glaciar Martial.
Sloppy Joe enjoying the view at the head of the glacier (not in the photo)
Me hiking in the Tierra del Fuego park