Saturday, March 01, 2008

2 decades of Violence

When I was in Lima I visited the National Museum. They were adding on to the building, so there were only a few things on display. The most interesting exhibit was a photo and video history of the fairly recent internal war against domestic terrorist groups, the Shining Path and the MRTA (from 1980 - early 90´s). During these years over 60,000 people were killed or disappeared due to both terrorist and government violence. The photos on display were very powerful - here´s a couple of them

One night, dead dogs were hung from power poles and lampposts all over the city, kicking off the beginning of the Shining Path´s campaign against the government.
People holding up posters of their missing relatives and friends.
Military youths prepared for battle.
Talk about job stress - luckily this guy safely dismantled the bomb.
The government decided to arm the peasants, and this is a major reason the Shining Path and MRTA were eradicated. Check out that gun it looks like he made it at a lumber yard.
No "Welcome" mat here
Child of the Shining Path celebrating his leader, Sendero Luminoso´s birthday
Sendero Luminoso (looks like Lucifer) - preaching behind bars.

Huaraz

Huaraz is nestled high up in the Cordilleras, and is one of the top destinations for trekking. Sadly, during this time of year there is too much rainfall and snow to do any multi-day hikes, and the visibility isn´t the best due to fog and cloud cover. On the plus side, you can hike all day without running into a single person.

Shot of the town I stayed at a lodge right next to the mountains, which was perfect for day hikes. I´m just about a mile or two up the hill from the lodge in this photo.

A very very simple bridge A great little hut
The first day, I went for a fairly simple hike. The next day, I tackled something a little more challenging. I didn´t have a map, just some directions written down on a page, and needless to say I got a bit lost. I ended climbing up the wrong valley, and then went too far into the mountains until I was stomping around in the snow.

After hiking down for an hour I finally found my goal - this lake
Check out the ladder in this photo - this section was wet and a real pain in the ass to climb down.


Lima

I am truly amazed at how clean and modern the city center of Lima is. Its by far the most advanced metropolis I´ve visited during this trip.

The changing of the presidential guard at the Palacio de Gobierno.
Check out this armored police vehicle
La Catedral de Lima and the Plaza de Armas (every Peruvian city has a Plaza de Armas).
Me in front of the Cathedral
Monasterio de San Francisco
Some of the parts of the estimated 70,000 buried in the underground catacombs of the monestary. Strangely, they decided to separate the heads from their respective bodies and make interesting arrangements with the bones.
Exhibition of the torture practices employed by the church at the Museo de la Inquisicion.
Women were only tortured by pouring boiling substances down their throuts - lucky them
Museo de la Nacion - sadly it was under construction so I could only check out a couple floors.
Chavin stone carvings
Incan mummy
The most intact colonial mansion in Lima, Palacio Torre Tagle.
The filthy Rio Rimac - I like the artwork on the wall next to the river.
Cerro San Cristobal
My favorite part of Lima, Miraflores.
Paragliders in Miraflores

The intricate mosaic wall at the Parque del Amor
Check out these heart shaped street lights at Parque Domodossoia
I ate tons of Ceviche (raw seafood in marinated in lime juice) from various disreputable places like the beach and dingy shops in back alleys, and luckily avoided getting sick. This is ceviche de mariscos a los tres ajies (shellfish in three-chili sauce) at Segundo Muelle, supposedly the best ceviche in Peru.
Another example of how modern Lima is - here´s a typical grocery store.

Cusco

Cusco is a very beautiful city, filled with cobblestone streets and colonial buildings. Its also the most tourist ridden town I´ve entered on my travels. This is where everyone flies in to visit Machu Picchu, so its crammed to the gills with tourists, travel agencies, and hawkers of various goods. Cusco also has a great nightlife, and the bars are jam packed every night of the week with both tourists and locals.

The Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus, which got into trouble for coming close to rivaling the cathedral.
Your not suppose to take photos inside, but after being charged a hefty amount of soles to enter the church I had to snap a shot or two. The Plaza de Armas
The massive Cathedral with a load of protesters marching around the plaza. These people are protesting the privatization of the operations of Machu Picchu. I wish I could have got some photos of the interior of the Cathedral, but there were too many security folks around. Qorikancha - loads of information on Inca construction techniques and holds the Iglesia de Santo Domingo.
Inca walls inside Qorikancha
Hanging out
The city at night

Puno

I crossed over the border into Peru with no problems or visa fees for that matter. The first stop was Puno, whose main and only attraction is Lake Titicaca (the same lake that holds Isla del Sol on the Bolivian side). While its extremely touristy - when your in Peru you have to visit the famous floating islands. The Uros people have been making and living on their floating reed islands for centuries. Now days these folks earn their bread through tourists who flock in droves to see how life is on the artificial islands.

View from the boat on the way out to the island village.
Start of the village
One of the big reed islands. They are constructed with loads of totora (reeds), which the people also eat.
Eating like an Uro. The totora tastes like water.
Uro pet hunting after the display fish.
He got one - you can still see it in his neck
Me on top of the guard tower
The Uros have lots of time on their hands, so they got a little bit more creative with this tower.
This pet bird is going after the potatoes
I have know idea what kind of bird this, but its got a cool beak.